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Review: Regent Seven Seas Cruises Voyager

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5 Feb 2012

My week on board Regent Seven Seas Cruises Voyager began in Hobart, Tasmania where I was among a handful of people embarking midway through the 15-night Sydney to Christchurch cruise. The weather was glorious, the 42,363-ton ship gleaming in the sunshine – and the attractive harbour looked far bigger than I recalled from one previous fleeting visit. Salamanca Markets were in full swing and the old shops, galleries and alleyways lovely to wander around. I hadn’t realised that Hobart is Australia’s second-oldest capital city, after Sydney – and next time I visit I will make sure I have time to see MONA, the Museum of Old and New Art. Passengers I met who had gone there were divided about its appeal – all loved the building but not everyone liked the exhibits.

Once on board Voyager us latecomers were processed by Immigration and given a thorough safety drill. My suite is at the aft of the ship on Deck 9, very spacious and tasetefully decorated in shades of cream and taupe with light, blond-wood furnishings and a gloriously comfortable king-size bed. My butler for the week, Amit from Delhi, introduced himself – it was his first weekend on the ship, and the handsome, helpful 26-year-old came from Delhi with a background of working at the prestigious Taj group of hotels. He whisked away my pile of ironing and later that evening, after Sailaway, served me a comfort-food special (cheesburger and chips) in my suite.

Captain Gianmario Sanguineti announced that the next 48 hours could be “rocky” and anyone “sensitive’ to the motion of the sea” should take appropriate medication. I was just looking forward to five whole days at sea and having lots of time to explore this lovely ship.

There’s plenty to do on board Voyager. After breakfast at Le Veranda on Deck 11 (sophisticated, waiter-assisted buffet) we queued for a short time in the Horizon Lounge on Deck 5 to fill out New Zealand immigration papers – much more civilised doing it on board, and in advance of our first scheduled landfall, Timaru. Every morning there’s a choice of activities such as stretch classes, cardio, bridge, maj jongg, and various lectures – I attended a fascinating talk by Ken Levine, one of the talented scriptwriting duo (with David Isaacs) responsible for MASH, Cheers and other world-famous TV shows. He was extremely entertaining and it was a pleasure to find out more about his action-packed and very prolific career in broadcasting.

A Turkish-themed lunch was served at the Pool Grill – fresh and delicious. Voyager has 7 restaurants and cafes: Compass Rose, the main dining room; Le Veranda Buffet; reservation-only Prime 7 and Signatures; Coffee Connection; Pool Grill; and Horizon Lounge for afternoon tea. Bars include the Pool Bar, Horizon Lounge, Observation Lounge, Voyager Lounge and (my favourite) the Connoisseur Club, where friendly smokers (and even the occasional non-smokers) congregate.

After dinner at Compass Rose with two ladies from San Antonio, Texas, we went to the Constellation Theatre to see Syd Heylen, an Australian comedian (and sometime juggler). He was very funny and it occurred to us afterwards that not one F-word had passed his lips, which just goes to show that swearing is not essential for good stand-up.

I haven’t spent so many days at sea before and the seas are definitely becoming a little rougher, but conditions aren’t hindering the focus on good food. There’s a presentation on dessert-making by pastry chef Joseph Paul Sciberra in the Horizon Lounge at 11am, followed by a German-themed buffet at Pool Grill (‘Bavarian Farmer’s Lunch), and then Waffle Tea Time in the afternoon. And despite the cool weather the live music duo continued to play on the pool deck for the entertainment of the hardy walkers (and even occasional dancer) there.

I opt for a presentation of episodes of MASH and Cheers that writer Ken Levine explained were special for two different production reasons – an insight that was much appreciated.

Over drinks at the Horizon Lounge with my newfound Texan friends, we met Assistant Cruise Director Cody Yancey and Social Hostess Laura Dean. This dynamic duo organised an impromptu bar-wide performance of ‘Happy Birthday’ for the captain’s wife, which went down very well and seems typical of the underlying friendliness you find everywhere on board Voyager. Travelling on my own, I was very grateful that they offered to accompany me to dinner, and then we met another couple outside Compass Rose, Marty and Marsha, who also joined us. It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening, rounded off with a few nightcaps in the Connoisseur Club with other newfound friends.

‘Scenic sailing’ in Milford Sound was on the menu today, and indeed we were treated to the sight of magnificent rock faces and waterfalls looming through the mist. Turning back into the open sea, however, the already bumpy weather conditions built dramatically and the captain informed us that the wind, which was gusting to 40 knots and predicted to drop, was by now gusting to 65 and 70 knots. There was some sense of rolling and everyone was staggering a little but activities continued as usual – I joined a Ladies Lunch at Compass Rose, where a lot of ginger ale was consumed, then retired to my suite. And then ended up not leaving for several hours while the wind continued to strengthen, doors banged, drawers flew open and loose objects tumbled off the surfaces. I managed to go to Art Director Christian Orland’s early-evening lecture about five grand masters in the Constellation Theatre, and it was unusual to say the least to see our lecturer standing braced at a strange angle and the screen flicking up and down with the ship’s movement. The storm grew to a Category II hurricane (wind 100 knots and more) and waves were up to 12 metres high – some passengers thoroughly enjoyed the drama put on by Mother Nature and the captain kept us all updated regularly. At 4am Wednesday morning a ‘Code Bravo’ was broadcast from the bridge, which I now know means there is a fire on board and crew are on standby. There was a small electrical fire on the aft of Deck 12, so the power was shut off to all aft decks while it was brought under control. At that point I got out of bed (memo to self, always bring a small flashlight), found my clothes with the help of my mobile phone light, and made my way to the reception area on Deck 5. A few people were milling about and our rather exhausted cruise director, Paul Reynolds, was on hand to inform and reassure guests. The electricity was out for maybe an hour but I must say everything was handled calmly and efficiently and by the next day, when conditions were calmer, most people were talking about it with a sense of excitement. And relief that it was over …

The calm after the storm: highlights of this, my fifth day at sea, were all about food, future shore excursions, food, entertainment, and food and top-quality wines. In a nutshell, another delicious breakfast of scrambled egg on toast at Le Verandah; informative Destination Lecture about Wellington by witty speaker John Tabbutt-McCarthy; then afternoon tea in the Horizon Lounge, where the most magnificent selection of cupcakes was on display and served to guests with great style.

I chatted with Mrs Myra Sugarman from Yorkshire, who has cruised with Regent every year for at least 10 years, often for up to five months at a time on world voyages, and who is affectionately known by crew as Grandma Myra. A pre-dinner show featuring Australian comedian/juggler Syd Heylen and the ship’s Assistant Cruise Director Cody Yancey singing a selection of his favourite soul numbers kept us entertained until it was time to dine at Signatures. For entree the three of us had lobster salad with fennel remoulade, citrus emulsion; artichoke heart ‘escabeche’ style, young fresee leaves and toasted pine nuts; and braised oxtail ravioli in a roquefort sauce. These were followed by soups and sorbet, then veal medallions ‘Orloss style’ for my companions and a succulent beef tenderloin for me. It seemed I made the best choice here. We then had a selection of super-rich chocolatey puddings and a fabulous cheese plate – and all washed down with French wines. A rowdy session of Liar Liar followed in the Horizon Lounge, featuring Syd Heylen, renowned baritone Stephen Fisher-King and entertainer Andy Lebon.

Voyager pulled into the large natural harbour of Akaroa early in the morning. Its name in Maori means ‘Long Harbour’ and it’s the oldest colonial town in the South Island as well as the only French colonial settlement in the country. The lifeboats tendered us ashore and I jumped off one vessel to another to take a ship’s excursion on the harbour with Akaroa Dolphins tours. The comfortable power cruiser headed out towards the mouth of the harbour and along the way we saw pods of Hectors dolphins, the smallest and rarest in the world, and weren’t they gorgeous! Our hosts Patsy and Mark gave excellent commentary and guidance and took the boat extremely close to the rocks so we could have a very close-up view of colonies of fur seals.

We learned some of the history of the Banks Peninsula – there have been some 67 generations of settlement since the arrival of the Polynesian forebears of the Maori – and in Onawe Bay saw the Maori meeting house and wooden church sitting side by side at the waterfront.

After wandering through the picturesque village, which still has French street, shop and house names, I spent an illuminating hour in the museum finding out more about Akaroa’s sealing, whaling and French-British-Maori heritage – an absolute bargain at NZ$4 for the entry fee. Jewellery-lovers will be fascinated by the Blue Pearl Gallery on the wharf in Akaroa, where jewellery incorporating these exquisitely coloured, iridescent pearls is made on the spot.

Last night was my last on the ship, and very convivial it was too; drinks at the Observation Lounge on Deck 11 followed by yet another excellent dinner at Compass Rose with Julie and Joanne, my Voyager friends from San Antonio, Texas. A few farewell libations at the Connoisseur Club and then it was off to pack my bags and prepare for a whistlestop tour of Wellington in the morning.

As my time in the country’s cosmopolitan capital city was so short I took the shuttlebus from the port to Lambton Quay and then rode the cable car up the hill to the top of the Botanic Garden. Although it was grey and drizzly (apparently not usual for this time of year), the walk down through the gardens was spectacular. I walked past the distinctive Beehive and Parliament buildings and as I made my back through the city streets to the Aotea Quay I did wonder why there were so many people rushing through the rain in an extraordinary array of fancy dress … and it turns out that the Rugby Sevens were being held at the stadium (just opposite where Voyager was berthed) that afternoon.

While I waited for a taxi to the airport I saw Amit, my lovely butler, decked out in civvies and eagerly anticipating his first shore call of the cruise. As always it was sad to say goodbye to the ship and the lovely people I met on board, but I had a wonderful time and if nothing else, I’ve learned two things on this cruise: always pack a flashlight and a light waterproof jacket!