How to see the Kimberley on a luxury expedition voyage with APT

From the moment I first stepped out onto my balcony, having escaped the greyness of city life only the day before, the colour palette of the Kimberley had me transfixed. A long line of sculpted cliffs glowed burnt sienna in the morning light, while bottle-green mangroves fringed the estuary of the King George River, the water a luminous shade of milky turquoise. 

This ancient landscape has been shaped by nature over 1.8 billion years – and humans have thrived here for 40,000 of those years, despite the lurking presence of man-eating, three-metre-long saltwater crocodiles.

While some opt for a road trip across this challenging region, a small-ship cruise is a truly luxurious way to travel, anchoring off scrub-covered islands and heading up hidden creeks by Zodiac. 

I was sailing on the Seabourn Pursuit, where life is sweet thanks to the spacious, all-veranda suites, fine dining and free-flowing champagne. 

The 132-suite ship has many of the features of Seabourn’s bigger vessels – the cosy Seabourn Square lounge, the gleaming elliptical staircase and yacht-inspired interiors by Adam D. Tihaney, and The Restaurant for elegant dining. Then there’s the adventure stuff: a fleet of 24 Zodiacs, the Discovery Centre, where daily lectures are held, and a crack team of highly qualified expedition leaders to share the secrets of this mysterious place. The vibe is a curious combination of rugged and elegant; think expedition gear by day and jewelled sandals and floaty tunics after dark.

One standout venture off the ship was along the King George River where, bumping over the waves, wind in our hair, we crossed a white sandbar at the mouth and headed upstream, increasingly hemmed in by towering rock walls. I caught my breath as we slowed down to admire a three-metre saltie basking on a beach. An osprey chick peeked out of a nest, high on a cliff and a peregrine falcon wheeled in the sky. 

The skinny ribbon (in dry season, at least) of King George Falls, or Oomari, tumbles 70 metres down a red ochre cliff face draped with greenery. From a distance, it looked like a trickle but I can confirm that it felt pretty powerful as I perched on the bow as we nudged up close for a cooling drenching. The pop of a champagne cork echoed across the water. A Zodiac bobbed nearby, manned by smiling bar waiters handing round glasses of fizz; it was an ‘APT Moment’ – little surprises that are carefully staged throughout the trip. 

Ancient art 

Scenery aside, I was here as much for the astonishing Aboriginal rock art, telling the stories of thousands of years of life in this remote place. At Jar Island, or Ngula, we gazed in awe at Gwion Gwion figures, slender, dancing beings with tasselled headgear, painted in red pigment and estimated to be an unimaginable 12,000 years old. 

At Swift Bay, the land of the Wunambal Gaambera, we encountered an ethereal Wandjina figure and his wife; the Wandjina are considered powerful ancestral spirits who are creators and bringers of rain, storms and life. But Freshwater Cove, or Wiggingarra Butt Butt, was my favourite; here, we were guided by members of the Worrorra people, the custodians of the land, a chance to hear their stories handed down through generations. 

Our faces were daubed with ochre in a Welcome to Country ceremony and we followed guide Neil Maru along a rocky trail, the scent of eucalyptus on the breeze. 

I was fascinated by Maru’s tales of his life here. What I saw as a beautiful but deadly paradise is his home. He and a small team run an ecotourism business between May and October, taking visitors to see Cyclone Cave, a spectacular gallery of human figures, fish, yams, rays and the cyclone after which the site is named, resembling a huge spider’s web. The team hunts kangaroo, wallaby, dugong, rays, salmon, emu – anything that will sustain them. “How are you with a boomerang?” asked one passenger, earnestly. “We use guns nowadays, mate,” replied Maru, as I sniggered quietly to myself.

On a high

At Porosus Creek, I looked down on the Kimberley from the sky on an optional helicopter tour to Mitchell Falls (additional expense). We soared over red escarpments slashed by sheer-sided gorges. Far below, I spotted a manta ray, a tiny triangle of black, cruising the aquamarine water of the creek.

We landed on a plateau where the river threads its way around rocky islands before cascading over a series of rock shelves. I followed a narrow trail to the viewpoint, savouring the solitude, and at the croc-free swimming area, slithered over mossy rocks to immerse myself in the cool water.

At another exciting stop on the voyage, Montgomery Reef – the world’s largest inshore reef – rises and falls on a staggering 12-metre tidal range, a phenomenon Sir David Attenborough has described as “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world.”

We hovered in our Zodiac as the tide began to fall, the reef emerging as if out of nowhere, thousands of waterfalls streaming off the rocks, stranding crabs and fish. Shrieking gulls and boobies wheeled overhead, eyeing the feast below, while sea turtles popped their heads up all around us.

The Horizontal Falls, or Garaanngaddim, is nature’s ultimate thrill ride, where seawater surges through a narrow channel in Talbot Bay as the tide drops. 

Squealing with excitement, we hung on tight as our Zodiac spun, skidded and strained in the foaming current. 

Life on board

In partnership with APT, Seabourn Pursuit brings a polished approach to Kimberley cruising, pairing expedition capability with the hallmarks of Seabourn’s signature style. An international crew delivers the line’s trademark attentive service, while the ship’s generous spaces and considered design elevate time on board. With its spa, infinity pool and a choice of dining venues, Pursuit makes the journey almost as rewarding as
the destination.

Life on board was certainly a contrast to the raw beauty outside. One minute, I was sampling a dainty apple strudel at afternoon tea in the Constellation Lounge and the next, whooping with delight on the foredeck as humpback whales surrounded the ship.

I went to as many lectures, or ‘Conversations’, as they’re known on Seabourn Pursuit, as I could, learning about the anatomy of a Wandjina figure as well as rocks, whales and crocodiles. Evenings were a happy routine of crimson sunsets, G&Ts in the Constellation Lounge and dinner. Quizzes and late-night music were laid on for the night owls but most people tended to retire early.

While the eclectic menu of The Restaurant often beckoned, I loved the more casual evenings dining at The Patio, the al fresco section of The Colonnade, simply because the night air was like a warm bath. Themes here ranged from Spanish to French, Vietnamese and Thai; standouts for me were the mango and papaya salad, pan-roasted barramundi and the Madras veggie curry. 

There’s a much wider choice in The Restaurant, with plenty of nods to Australian tastes, from seared mangrove jack to dusky grouper, breaded basa with sweet potato chips and steak in every form. 

Some nights, dinner was preceded by a deck party. An elegant caviar and champagne feast on The Patio was a feeding frenzy, despite the fact that you can have caviar in your suite for breakfast. On the last night, out on deck, we tucked into a magnificent sunset feast of sushi, tapas and yet more caviar, served by the ship’s officers as we clapped and cheered our wonderful crew.

I headed up to deck 10 for a last look at the heavens. The Milky Way arched overhead, the Southern Cross cradled in the dip between two hills, ghostly in the starlight. The very same stars that would have guided and inspired those early Aboriginal people, 40,000 years ago. Now there’s something to get your head around.

Good to know

Favourite meal: Gin-cured gravlax and fresh snapper at The Patio, with lashings of chilled rosé.

What to pack: Long-sleeved shirts and lightweight pants protect you from the sun and dry quickly if you get wet on Zodiac rides. In the evenings, smart casual attire is the way to go.

Insider tip: Just about every landing is a wet one but the hikes are short, so I just walked in my water shoes. You don’t need hiking boots.

How you can make this journey with APT

With nearly a century of experience behind it, APT Luxury Travel has refined the art of all-inclusive exploration. As the only operator offering Kimberley land and sea combinations, APT delivers a thoughtfully designed expedition that balances comfort, expertise and adventure in one of Australia’s last great wilderness regions. 

Along with expertly curated 4WD itineraries throughout the Kimberley, APT offers a nine-night Kimberley Coastal Expedition aboard the ultra-luxurious Seabourn Pursuit. Sailing from Broome to Darwin, the journey traces the rugged contours of the Kimberley Coast, where towering sandstone cliffs, powerful tides and deep cultural significance define this extraordinary region.

In true APT style, guests are accompanied on the journey by an APT Cruise Director and a 23-person Expedition Team with the expertise to enrich every landing and excursion. 

The onboard experience is just as rewarding.With just 132 suites, the state-of-the-art ship is small enough to navigate the region’s remote waterways while still offering a high level of comfort. As guests are delighted to discover, Seabourn Pursuit features spacious all-veranda suites and a range of elegant shared spaces, from the infinity pool to panoramic observation decks. Guests have a choice of seven world-class dining venues plus 24-hour in-suite dining, along with complimentary premium spirits, champagne and fine wines. 

Cruising north, the voyage takes in the islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago, with Zodiac excursions offering up-close access to remote reefs around Adele Island. In Talbot Bay,  immense tidal movements force seawater through the narrow gorges of Horizontal Falls, an experience all the more incredible at water level.

Cultural immersion is at the heart of this journey. At Freshwater Cove, guests take part in an Arraluli Heritage Exploration, beginning with a heartfelt Welcome to Country and traditional smoking ceremony conducted by the Arraluli people. A guided walk follows, with an Aboriginal guide interpreting ancient rock art and sharing insights into cultural traditions.

More natural wonders await guests at Montgomery Reef, where receding tides cause the vast reef system to rise dramatically from the ocean, creating cascading waterfalls and exposing an array of marine life. Then, in Prince Frederick Harbour, Zodiac cruises through the Hunter River and Porosus Creek reveal mangrove-lined waterways, prolific birdlife and saltwater crocodiles. Guests can enhance their experience with a scenic helicopter flight over Mitchell Falls, available at an additional cost.

The itinerary includes a visit to Ashmore Reef Marine Park in the Timor Sea, a protected sanctuary supporting extraordinary seabird breeding colonies and diverse coral systems. 

Near the journey’s end, as Seabourn Pursuit enters Koolama Bay and the King George River, sheer red cliffs frame the powerful King George Falls, plunging 80 metres into the gorge below – guests can experience its thundering presence up close on an exciting Zodiac outing. The journey concludes in Darwin, following a final day at sea to relax and enjoy the ship.

In 2026, Kimberley Coastal Expedition departures are scheduled between May and August. In 2027, Broome-to-Darwin and Darwin-to-Broome itineraries are available between June and August. 

More information: aptouring.com.au