Wine time: Onboard Avalon Artistry II in Bordeaux
Table Of Content
It’s the start of the river cruise season, but despite the cold weather, the sun is shining and spirits are high. Cruise & Travel is on board Avalon Waterways’ Avalon Artistry II, which is fresh from a makeover.
But it’s not the ship’s recent glow up (or the French wine) that has tongues wagging – but Avalon’s new itinerary sailing the Garonne and Dordogne rivers in France, an area which was once typically known for barge cruising.
Travelling to France has become increasingly popular globally over the past 18 months. The Bonjour Bordeaux: Châteaux, Wineries & Charming Villages itinerary, which was launched this year, is Avalon’s response to the rising demand.
The company has also launched three new itineraries – French Masterpiece: Paris, Normandy & Bordeaux; France, Uncorked: The Rhône, the Seine & Bordeaux; and Vineyards, Châteaux & Bordeaux, any of which can be combined with the new eight-day cruise.
Cruise & Travel was on a condensed four-day taster of the itinerary, which sails the Garonne and Dordogne.
Day 1
It’s a sunny day in Paris when we arrive, and it’s a pristine time to visit France – the country and city are not teeming with crowds. Paris is gorgeous during March, with warm weather during the day and cooler evenings where you’ll only need a light jacket.
As part of Avalon’s pre-cruise extension, we are staying for two nights at the five-star L’Hôtel du Collectionneur Paris, just near the Champs-Elysées.
We are met at Charles De Gaulle Airport by our Avalon Waterways guide, who picks up the group and organise the transfer to the hotel – all very seamless.
The first day, we hit the cobblestoned streets for a bit of shopping and champagne to get reacquainted with the City of Lights.
The hotel is near restaurants and bars and just a 10-minute walk to the Arc de Triomphe and luxury brand stores such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior.
The beauty of Avalon’s pre-cruise offering is that you can wander the city on your own time or take part in the line’s excursions.
Day 2
After a good night’s rest, Avalon has planned a jam-packed day of activities. These optional excursions take inspiration from the line’s Active and Discovery shore excursions, designed for those who want something a bit more physical, or those who want to bathe in the culture of the destination.
In the morning, we head on board our private coach for a driving tour of Paris with a local guide. We take in the sights of the Champs-Élysées, the Eiffel Tower and the Place de la Concorde while we’re told about the history of the City of Lights. After taking photos, we stop at the newly reopened Notre-Dame to look at the renovations.
The afternoon is then spent exploring Montmartre, known as the city’s red-light district and famous for can-can girls and, surprisingly, fantastic seafood brasseries.
La Mascotte on Rue des Abbesses has been an institution in the arrondissement since 1910, held under the stewardship of the same family for the last three generations. The plateau de fruits de mer is piled high with scampi, langoustines and oysters from Normandy and Burgandy.
In the evening, Avalon arranged a special night at the Moulin Rouge. The tickets include a lively show of scantily clad dancers, adorned in sequins and feathers, coupled with a traditional French dinner.
Day 3
The following morning, we check out of L’Hôtel du Collectionneur Paris to head towards Bordeaux. The easiest way to get from Paris to Bordeaux is a two-and-a-half-hour train journey. But Avalon organises our bags to be driven down by truck – so all we need to bring on the TGV is our hand luggage.
It’s a pleasant and quick ride, and when we reach Bordeaux we are met by an Avalon guide who takes us to the beautiful Avalon Artistry II, docked alongside the picturesque historic town.
Arriving in Bordeaux, we have some time to explore the town, which is famous for its 18th- to 19th-century mansions and beautiful public gardens.
The walkable city is filled with back lanes brimming with wine bars and cafes. There are barely any cars in the centre of the city, so it’s a great place to explore by bike.
Back on the ship, we head up to the sun deck to watch the sail off from Bordeaux.
Day 4
Every day, guests are given an option for Active, Discovery or Classic excursions depending on interests and physical ability. There are often excursions both in the morning and the afternoon.
It’s 10:30 in the morning and I have a glass of wine in hand. On a tour of Chateau Siran in Medoc, we learn about Bordeaux’s storied history of winemaking as we sip on the vineyard’s highly regarded 2017 vintages paired with smooth comtes and bries. We learn about the complex skill required to create the velvety fruit blend, combining the perfect balance between tannins, acidity and alcohol.
If you’re not a booze hound, Bordeaux is also known for its chocolatiers. In these quaint shops, you’d expect Juliet Binoche to pop out from behind the counter like in French movie, Chocolat.
The afternoon excursion is spent in Blaye where Les Kellen, a charming South African, who is renowned in the area for his exquisite palette and wicked sense of humour, runs the Etalon Rouge Vineyard and Winery and Le Petite Cave Wine Bar.
He and his gorgeous wife, Clarissa, an artist, also own many of the surrounding buildings, where you can rent out rooms, apartments and studios. They take us on a tour of their properties (again, with a glass of wine in hand), as well as Clarissa’s gallery, which has a collection of classic cars and motorcycles and where we get a chance to paint and add something to her collection.
Day 5
The following day in Libourne, our Discovery Tour is led by Catherine, a bubbly British woman who met her French husband three decades ago. “It was his cooking that made me want to stay,” she said.
The pretty commune is the gateway to the famous Saint-Émilion and Pomerol region. While the others head on a bike riding and hiking excursion to Saint Émilion, the sights and sounds of the local market are too tempting.
Catherine takes us around the bustling square, where there are dozens of producers selling everything from rotisserie chicken to foie gras to spring white asparagus. The pièce de résistance, though, is the beautifully shucked oysters: for about $5.50 you can pick up a dozen, freshly shucked. My advice: bring cash to the markets so you can pick up some fresh produce or bottled goods to bring home.
Back on the ship, Avalon invited pastry masters to show us how to make a canelé, a small French pastry flavoured with rum and vanilla, with a soft and tender custard centre and a dark, thick, caramelised crust.
After the tasting is done, with a cup of tea, we wolf down the sweet little pastries.
Day 6
Our final day in Bordeaux is spent bike riding around the city on one of Avalon’s Active shore excursions. We are met by the very chic Joanna and Bruno – both wearing beautiful fedoras and coats, while we don our daggy activewear – who will be our guides.
Born and bred in Bordeaux, Joanna takes us around the city, winding our way through the backstreets and past the stunning Gothic architecture.
Back on the ship, it’s our last night and the team has planned a special event for us. After a beautiful five-course meal of French delicacies, we are treated to a sail past the city to see the lights.
With more bubbles in hand, we wave goodbye to the beautiful taster of a wonderful itinerary.
Getting to know Avalon Artistry II
The ship
Originally built for the Rhine River, the ship’s recent renovations have made her fit for the majesty of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. The 166-passenger vessel has had a top-to-toe refurbishment – everything from the furnishings in the public spaces to upgraded internet and a sky deck with all-new furnishings.
What sets Avalon apart from its competitors is that every aspect of the ship is designed to take in the scenery along your itinerary.
There are several public areas on the ship, including the Panorama Lounge, a convivial area which can fit all the guests at any one time and where the crew hosts everything from yoga classes in the morning, through a light lunch, to evening cocktails with live music. The Panorama Lounge connects to both the concierge area, the meeting point for shore excursions, and the Observatory Lounge – an outdoor sitting area at the front of the ship.
In the back of the ship, the Club Lounge is notorious for its cookie jar and free coffee machines. With plenty of comfortable lounges, it’s the perfect place for a middle-of-the-night hot chocolate if the jet lag hits hard.
The suites
The ship has 52 Panorama Suites, each offering 18.5 square metres of living space, which is around 30 per cent larger than other river lines. The cabins make up about 80 per cent of the ship, and their most stunning features are the floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall panoramic windows that also act as balconies.
Inside the cabins, there is a large desk and a lounge area where any meal can be delivered while you enjoy the view of the rolling vineyards.
But my favourite part of the cabin is in the bathroom. There is a huge vanity with plenty of storage space. But what’s so thoughtful is the different coloured towels – white for men and brown for women, so we can wash our makeup off without the remnants being seen on the towels.
The dining and food
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served on board the ship. The culinary team will serve regional dishes for lunch and dinner, incorporating the wines from the area, and even fetching freshly baked bread and patisseries from local providores for breakfast.
Breakfast starts at 7am; lunch at midday; and then dinner sittings run 7pm-8:30pm. There are no allocated sitting times, so you can wander in at your leisure.
Breakfast is a wide selection of buffet items, with fruit, yoghurt, eggs, hot choices such as bacon, sausages and mushrooms and a daily omelette bar.
Lunch can be served in the Panorama Lounge, with soup, salad and sandwiches – or if you want to opt for something heavier, the main dining room’s buffet will serve items such as cassoulet and beef bourguignon, and there are even ramen stations. There are always soups, salads and lighter options, and wine and beer are served during lunch and dinner. While there is an array of desserts, don’t go past the homemade ice cream.
Dinner is usually a four-course meal with a soup or salad. An example would be: beef consommé, starters of scallops or scampi with risotto, mains of lamb racks with ratatouille, and desserts of crème brûlée and locally sourced cheese.
For those watching their figures, there is always a lighter option, such as grilled chicken breast or white fish with vegetables.
