The best secret rivers of France for your next river cruise

The problem with river cruising is that you often get blindsided by “star rivers”. There are several waterways around the globe that just must be travelled, but benefits can be found if you shop around. Nowhere is this truer than in France.

You can explore the châteaux of the Loire and the wonders of Paris on the Seine, while a trip down the Rhône brings you Van Gogh’s favourite café and the opportunity to dance “sur le Pont d’Avignon”, for a small fee.

The trouble is, stars come with crowds, so looking beyond the obvious is a good idea. I defy anyone to gaze at the roof of the Hospices de Beaune on the Saône and not be mesmerised by its geometrical beauty, or walk the streets of Strasbourg on the Ill and not believe you’re back in medieval times. Sail the great rivers, of course, but don’t forget the little guys.

The Seine 

The Bayeux Tapestry is one of the highlights of this cruise with a personal commentary on the 1066 Norman invasion as you move along its length. The Cathedral in Bayeux is also worth a visit, as is that of the ancient capital Rouen.

A visit to the D-Day beaches at Arromanches is soothed by walking around the harbour at Honfleur, with its narrow five-storey houses that seem to have been squashed together like the keys on a piano. Do try the local Calvados.

• Cruise: Riviera Travel’s 8-day The Seine, Paris and Normandy River.
• Ports: Paris, Giverny, Rouen, Caudebec.

The Gironde, Dordogne and Garonne

• Bordeaux is a world capital of wine, so as you might expect, names normally associated with supermarket shelves such as Saint-Emilion and Cadillac are part of this cruise. Entered through one of its seven medieval gates, St Emilion has a charming cobblestone village where Grands Crus Classé wines and beautiful architecture
are a perfect match.

Similarly, part of the central square in Libourne is surrounded by the traditional arcades and is especially lively on market days. At Blaye, Vauban’s 17th-century citadel is a military masterpiece complete with village and ramparts to explore. 

• Cruise: Scenic’s 8-day Bordeaux Affair. 
• Ports: Bordeaux, Libourne, Blaye, Cadillac, Bordeaux. 

The Rhône, Saone and Seine

Exploring France by travelling on three of its rivers, with extended stays at ports of call to explore their hinterland, is a great way to truly discover the country. This cruise offers a private, after-dark concert in Rouen’s cathedral and a visit to the Normandy beaches. 

You’ll also lock eyes on the towering 2000-year-old Pont du Gard Roman aqueduct and view the private rooms at Versailles as Marie Antoinette saw them. In Beaune, taste local camembert along with some of the world’s finest Chardonnay wines, and in Giverny, take a stroll through Monet’s beautiful garden at the house where the painter lived for over 40 years.

• Cruise: Uniworld’s 15-day Grand France. 
• Ports: Arles, Avignon, Viviers, Lyon, Mâcon, Rouen, Paris. 

The Ill

Technically, you’ll see more of Germany than France on this journey, but the River Ill, which surrounds the Unesco-listed Grande Île at the centre of Strasbourg, is worth an honourable mention.

The pink-sandstone facade of the Gothic-style Strasbourg Cathedral, with its cache of ancient murals and astronomical clock, looms large. Canals branch off from the main river course creating scenic walkways and bridges, adding to the allure of the ancient cityscape. Explore the red, half-timbered houses of Bernkastel and play spot the castle as you sail further south along the Rhine Valley.

• Cruise: Avalon Waterways’ 11-day Rhine and Mosel (Southbound). 
• Ports: Amsterdam, Cologne, Koblenz, Speyer, Strasbourg, Breisach, Basel. 

The Yonne and Loing

• The waters of the Yonne north of Paris are too shallow for bigger boats, so this cruise lets you experience a quieter slice of French history and life. The Cathedral Saint-Etienne in Sens was one of the first gothic cathedrals to be built in France, while Moret-Loing-et-Orvanne lets
you visit the grandeur and magnificence of Fontainebleau. Barbizon has a fascinating eponymous art museum and the studios of Rousseau and Millet, who lived and worked here.

• Cruise: Great Rail Journeys’ 7-day Waterways of The Yonne, Paris and the Petite Seine. 
• Ports: Paris, Melun, Barbizon, Moret-Loing-et-Orvanne, Sens. 

The Rhône and Saône

There is something magical about Arles. Not just that you can sit in the café where Van Gogh watched the world go by then walk a few yards to explore the virtually intact Roman amphitheatre, but the slow pace of life is all around.

From Marseille in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region, you will cruise the Rhône and then the Saône rivers through Provence and into rich wine lands… and on to Lyon and then overland to the magical city of Paris.

• Cruise: Tauck’s 14-day La Belle Vie: The Rhone, Geneva & the Riviera. 
• Ports:  Marseille, Aix-en-Provence, Arles, La Camargue, Avignon, Chalon-sur-Saône, Lyon, Geneva. 

The Saône 

Passing through Burgundy — a wine region that needs no introduction — this cruise lets you visit walled towns including Beaune with its beautiful 14th-century hospices complete with glazed tile roof and Tournus, which in turn offers its remarkable Romanesque Abbey Saint-Philibert. You’ll berth at towns that reverberate with the names found on sought-after red wine labels, finally arriving at the culinary and architectural box of delights that is Lyon.

• Cruise: AmaWaterways’ 7-night Flavours of Burgundy.
• Ports: Dijon, Seurre, Chalon-sur-Saône, Tournus, Mâcon, Lyon.

Canal du Midi

The Mediterranean section of the 18th-century-built Canal du Midi is often referred to as both a technical innovation and a work of art. Between Portiragnes to Béziers alone, you’ll cross an aqueduct over the River Orb and ascend a seven-lock flight of unique, oval gateways. 

With a visit to the double-walled city of Carcassonne and also Pézenas, Languedoc’s ancient capital, a truffle hunt, a private wine tasting and passing through Europe’s oldest canal tunnel, this cruise lets you get under the skin of Provence.

• Cruise: European Waterways’ 6-night Classic Canal du Midi.
• Ports: Marseillan, Portiragnes, Béziers, Capestang, Sallèles d’Aude, Le Somail.  

The Loire  

The chateaux of the Lofpontire will always be a draw, and while this cruise has an all-day excursion to discover them, Nantes is a jewel in its own right. The castle of the Dukes of Brittany, giant mechanical elephants – yes really – and taking coffee in La Cigale, the wonderful 19th-century Belle Epoch Brasserie, are essential sites to tick off.

Explore Angers with its Terra Botanica, a plant-themed amusement park, the Château d’Angers and its Apocalypse Tapestry and the museum of St Nazaire. The 96-guest MS Loire Princess adds to the experience as a luxury paddle steamer designed specifically for the river. 

• Cruise: CroisieEurope’s 6-day The Loire Valley, a Royal Legacy Cruise.
• Ports: St Nazaire, Nantes, Anciens, Chalonnes-sur-Loire, Nantes. 

The Rhône and Rhine

This cruise offers something special. The chance to experience and compare the Provençal lifestyle of Arles with the Franco-German culture of Strasbourg. In essence a cultural journey along the Rhône and the Rhine. Explore Avignon’s grand Palace of the Popes and Cologne’s majestic cathedral, both Unesco sites.

Savour Lyon’s rich culinary traditions and the Rhineland’s hearty flavours and admire the landscapes that inspired Van Gogh in the Netherlands and Provence.

• Cruise: Viking’s 14-day Lyon, Provence and The Rhineland. 
• Ports: Avignon, Arles, Viviers, Tournon, Vienne, Lyon, Burgundy, Basel, Breisach, Strasbourg, Speyer, Rudesheim.

This piece was originally published in The Telegraph UK

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