Teresa Ooi sails on one of Europe’s lesser-known rivers with Avalon Waterways.
Forget the Ashes. The real battle between Australia and the UK took place on board
the Avalon Imagery II last European summer– and Australia was victorious!
An Avalon T-shirt and an umbrella might not be quite the famous urn, but it will do.
The knockout blow for the Brits came when they were asked which country had an X
in its name. Perhaps it was Brexit, but they didn’t get Luxembourg.
We are cruising aboard Avalon Imagery II as she meanders down the Moselle River
from Remich in Luxembourg to Frankfurt in Germany – and the scenery cannot be
more beautiful.
We’re an assorted bunch – Australians, Brits, Kiwis, South Africans and Americans.
And one of the joys of river cruising is the camaraderie in the lounge after dinner. It’s
how great friendships are made.
The Moselle is one of the Rhine’s longest tributaries. It covers roughly 550
kilometres from its source at Ballon d’Alsace, high in the Vosges mountains in
France, to its end where it joins the Rhine at the city of Koblenz, Germany.
The river forms a water border between Luxembourg and Germany and passes
Alpine valleys, medieval towns, verdant vineyards and fairytale castles.
It is picture-perfect and what one American guest describes as a screensaver whenever you look out of Avalon’s fabulous floor-to-ceiling windows.
Middle and Lower Moselle from Trier, Germany’s oldest city and the birthplace of
Karl Marx, to Koblenz is particularly stunning. The river snakes its way through the
scenery and takes your breath away.
Avalon’s ‘Active & Discovery on the Moselle’ itinerary is an eight-day cruise that sails
three rivers. The Moselle from Remich to Koblenz, then the Rhine to Rudesheim,
and finally the Maine to Frankfurt. The Moselle has 13 locks which Avalon Imagery II
passes through. As Captain Tamas Harsanyi says, “It’s all part and parcel of my job
to get the ship through the locks with the help of my second in command and crew.”
The months from April to October are generally the warmest for a Moselle cruise.
The day starts with temperatures of about 12°C then quickly climbs to a warm 23°C
by mid-morning.
It is also the time when annual wine festivals are held with pop-up tasting stations.
And the riverside towns decked with flowers, buntings and ribbons. The festive
atmosphere includes oompah bands, kids’ carousels, fireworks and processions.
And best of all – lots and lots of wine.Some of the best German rieslings are produced here. They are crisp, light, aromatic and very drinkable. Perfect for a late summer lunch of bratwurst sausages, sauerkraut and salad – all good German staples washed down with chilled riesling.
When is the best time to cruise the Moselle?
The Moselle River can also be at its charming best in October/November when
autumn colours gild the landscape and temperatures are still pleasant enough.
Most tourist attractions stay open until early November. So, this is also a good time
to see the sights without the crowds.
Then there’s Christmas – a magical time along the Moselle. It’s when most of its
towns host glittering, fairytale Christmas fairs from mid-November until Christmas
Eve. Just make sure you layer up, put a beanie on, grab a mug of gluhwein (mulled
wine) and enjoy the festivities.
Avalon does not offer Christmas journeys on the Moselle. Instead, it has Christmas
Market itineraries on the Danube from Nuremberg to Vienna and on the Rhine from
Basel to Frankfurt or vice versa.
Our first port of call is Trier, Germany’s oldest city, where we go on an evening
excursion with a local historian guide. Trier was founded by the Romans and is often
called the Rome of the North. One of its tourist attractions is Porta Nigra – the Black
Gate – the oldest building in Germany. It’s a black, imposing building that looks
suspiciously like a Hollywood film set. I would expect to see Tom Cruise leap out of
the parapet on his motorbike in one of his Mission Impossible movies.
In the middle of the main square is a bronze statue of Karl Marx, the father of
Communism, donated by the Chinese government. Throughout the marketplace are
quaint wooden houses built between 1602 and 1605.
The next day we arrive at Bernkastel and take a walking tour of the medieval town.
Of its population of about 7500, more than 65 per cent are Catholics. We stop by the
500-year-old St Michael’s Catholic Church, but the most charming place is the
market square buzzing with local Germans on holiday.
Shore excursions on the Avalon Imagery II
For the more adventurous, Avalon offers active excursions. Those who want to test
their cycling prowess can take a 30-kilometre ride along the riverbank to the next
port of call. The fitter among us take up the challenge and, even with the sun beating
down at 25°C, they all completed the journey to Bernkastel.
Life on board Avalon Imagery II is as gentle as the river we are sailing. The ship is
spacious, elegant and kitted out in chic furnishings. The panoramic suites have
marble bathrooms and L’Occitane toiletries are encased in glass containers, in line
with Avalon’s sustainability ethos.
There are more than adequate drawers and hanging space to store all your holiday
gear.
The dining onboard Avalon Imagery II
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the main dining restaurant on Deck 2 while
a light lunch of salads, cheese and chicken or vegetarian pasta is also available in
the Panorama Lounge at the front of the ship. There are always cookies and coffee
available 24 hours at the Club Lounge at the stern of the ship on Deck 3.
Avalon has recently introduced Happy Hour on board for guests to mingle and chat
about their day’s activities over a glass or two of riesling or Aperol in the Panorama
Lounge.
The sundeck has a tiny whirlpool, big enough to accommodate a maximum of four
guests. There are plenty of sun loungers with sunshades and comfortable cushioned
seats at the front of the ship to relax with a book as the ship sails silently to the next
destination.
Avalon also hosts barbecues and friendly tournaments such as cornhole on the sky
deck.
Afternoon tea and happy hour are also served daily at the Lounge with cruise
director Mauro Demevi giving a port briefing on what to expect from the next
destination.
Executive chef Ibrahim Mahmoud, who hails from Egypt and has been working for
Avalon for 10 years, says the cuisine reflects the region where the ship sails with a
daily choice of meat, fish and vegetarian meals always available. His biggest
challenge is to cater to guests’ various dietary restrictions such as intolerances to
lactose, gluten or garlic. Wines specially picked by sommeliers also reflect the region
the ship sails in and are included during meals.
The main selling point of Avalon’s accommodation is the panoramic suites with floor-
to-ceiling windows boasting uninterrupted river and landscape views. The double
bed faces the window and you can open the sliding door, allowing the fresh breeze
in.
The suites
Avalon boasts: “The bed always faces the giant window with ever-changing views.”
And you do wonder why all river cruise lines don’t have this configuration.
We arrive at the charming town of Cochem which has a population of only 5500
people but plays host to more than two million visitors a year.
“Cochem in winter is a ghost town as most tourists visit from May to October,” says
our local guide, Sylvie.
We walk to one of the oldest mustard mills, dating back to 1810. It produces about
200 kilograms of mustard a day with the seeds imported from Canada and Eastern
Europe. The mill specialises in nine varieties of mustard, including one with
gingerbread spices based on an original recipe from the 15th century. There are
tastings and the one with garlic wins my thumbs up.
I visit the three-onion-domed, 15th-century St Michael’s Catholic Church. The
stained glass windows were painted by the same artists who completed the stained
glass windows at Westminster Abbey.
But it’s time for more riesling at Emily’s Cafe in the Market Square. It’s a perfect spot
for some local people-watching.
Back on the ship, a delicious roast duck dinner was followed by a performance by
violinist Vlad Musatov. He played a medley of classical and contemporary music
from Schindler’s List to Michael Jackson – a perfect after-dinner experience that left
many of the female cruisers with tears in their eyes.
The next day, the river merges with the Rhine at Koblenz. We are greeted by the
magnificent monument built by the first Kaiser of Germany, Wilhelm I. It is at the
confluence of the two rivers on the popular promenade.
Koblenz was once the home of emperors, kings and dukes – but today it is home to
many large corporates. The Old Town, with its half-timbered buildings and charming cafes, is buzzing. We walk into a concert where four musicians from Ukraine are
playing classical instruments including the Russian balalaika.
The Rhine is a much busier river than the Moselle. As we make our way from
Koblenz to Rudesheim, we cruise through some amazing landscapes. There is the
Maus Castle, built in 1256 on the left bank, followed by the Katz Castle on the hills
on the right bank. We also pass through the narrowest part of the river. They serve
us a glass of warm spiced tea brandy as a reward. It’s a heartwarming gesture as
the temperatures dip to a windy and chilly 12°C.
Our final stop is Frankfurt on the River Maine – pronounced “Meine” in German.
Frankfurt is the banking centre of Germany. It is also known as the Manhattan of the
country. The city’s airport is one the largest in Europe with more than 66 million
passengers a year.
We lunch at the Old Opera House Square, where we share pork knuckle with
sauerkraut, frankfurter with chips and fried baby sardines, washed down with apple
cider. A delicious Germanic treat.
Cruising on Avalon Imagery ll on the Moselle is a charming experience with picture-
perfect vineyards on both sides of the river banks.
And the fairytale castles, villages and towns are filled with friendly locals. It’s a
pleasant change from the crowds in other European countries.
What is particularly appealing is that Avalon offers a choice of excursions where fit
passengers can hike and bike. While the less active can simply go for a gentle stroll
to discover what the Moselle has to offer.
Avalon Imagery II’s international crew of 37 is attentive and helpful, especially to
guests who need assistance. And the food served in its main dining room has
been consistently good.
The Moselle deserves to be discovered. I can’t wait to return.
The eight-day ‘Active & Discovery on the Moselle’ journey starts at AU$4492 per person, based on double occupancy.
Avalon offers an optional extension from AU$1330 per person. Click here for more details.
