Note: To learn more about our cruise click here.

 

Review: APT Mekong River Cruise

After flying to Singapore, my wife and I took a one-hour flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia.  We were looking forward to beginning our new riverboat experience, sailing down the Mekong River aboard APT’s La Marguerite – a two year old riverboat built in Vietnam.

Our cruise was to officially start at the Le Meridien Hotel in Siem Reap, a luxury 5 star hotel with wonderful facilities and perhaps one of the best pools I have ever seen.

We decided to spend three days at the hotel prior to the official start as Sandra was particularly interested in visiting the World Heritage listed Angkor Wat temple complex, which is literally only minutes away.

Built for King Suryavarman II in the 12^th Century, Angkor Wat is an absolute must see when visiting Cambodia.

We soon discovered that Cambodian money is virtually unwanted, while American Dollars are requested by all, from hotels to the smallest stallholder.

After three days of sightseeing and being pampered at the hotel, the first day of our APT adventure began at 11 a.m. in the hotel foyer when we joined our, mostly Australian, fellow passengers.  Once the check-in formalities were taken care of, we boarded our air-conditioned coach for a drive through the countryside to the river where we boarded large motorboats that ferried us past floating fishing villages to La Marguerite.

On our way to La Marguerite several small boats pulled alongside trying to sell us wares that ranged from fruits to live snakes held by young children.

We were certainly in for a colourful eight days.

When our motor launches pulled alongside La Marguerite, we boarded and were greeted by a very welcoming Captain and crew – cold towels and cool drinks were well received by all.

After a short briefing and safety talk we were escorted to our cabin to freshen up.

Our cabin was decorated with a vintage flair: the ceiling and walls were made of dark timber and a vintage fan and telephone nicely complimented one of the latest air conditioners.  The cabin was not huge, but practical. Large wardrobes were appreciated as well as the latest widescreen TV and DVD player.  The sliding doors opened to a balcony and we could lie in bed with an outstanding field of view.  The window seat was a real bonus and very comfortable to sit in and read or watch the river going by. The ensuite bathroom was practical and featured a large shower recess.

Our name badges helped everyone get to know each other over our first lunch on board.

Breakfasts and lunches were buffet style, with an enormous choice of hot and cold foods, mostly western with a hint of oriental cuisine.  Free soft drinks and local wines were served during meals.  There was also a fairly extensive wine list featuring Australian and international wines for an additional cost – most chose the complimentary local wines.  Local spirits were also included free and these could be had from the cocktail bar on the top deck.  The free alcohol and soft drinks proved most popular and meant that, along with the included tips, there was virtually no account waiting at the end of the trip. The only real extras were for massages or anything purchased at the small onboard shop.

All our daily excursions were included at no charge.

There was also an excellent free library of books and DVDs that enabled Sandra and I to catch up on some recently released movies.

After dinner, a talented musician provided entertainment, but most passengers went to bed fairly early as each day was packed with tours and things to do.

This morning, after an enormous buffet breakfast (including a great omelette from the cooked-to-order egg station) we headed off on our first shore excursion.

Passengers were placed into three groups and assigned a guide. Three motor launches then pulled alongside La Marguerite and (after we had put on our specially designed mini life vests ­– worn every time we boarded the launches) took us to Kampong Chhang, our first river village.

On the way, we sailed past floating villages and watched the locals going about their daily life – fish and rice farming was their main occupation.

Arriving at Kampong Chhang, we took a leisurely walk through shops and market stalls.

We then returned for lunch before sailing further down the river to Kampong Tralach where we went on an ox cart ride through rice fields and small villages (one of the highlights of the trip).

Buses then took us to Oudong, the former capital of Cambodia, where we visited the largest Buddhist centre in the country.

Each night on our cruise, La Marguerite moored near our next day’s destination. Sleeping was never a problem. The peaceful environment and calmness of the river was very conducive to a good sleep, which was certainly necessary after our almost non-stop activities.

This morning La Marguerite docked at Chong Koh, a silk weaving village, where the houses are on stilts as protection from annual flooding.

We walked from house to house observing the villagers at their looms, followed by the local children, who amazingly spoke almost perfect English. Local handicrafts, such as silk scarves and tablecloths, were available to purchase at very reasonable prices.

This afternoon our boat arrived in Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital. We spent the rest of the day leisurely exploring this most interesting city and taking its decidedly French architectural heritage.

We hired a tuk tuk, the local means of transport (a kind of motorbike driven rickshaw), and after negotiating the fare in US dollars, the currency of choice (no-one wanted Aussie dollars), were driven around the town for about an hour.

After dinner, local children came on board and performed traditional dances.

We spent all of today in Phnom Penh – there was a lot to see.

Our air-conditioned coach drove us to the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda and then took us to a museum to see various Khmer crafts.

A highlight of the day was a visit to the local Russian Market where many of our fellow passengers bought souvenirs. There were also local delicacies, such as deep fried grasshoppers, tarantulas, frogs and cockroaches, but we decided not to buy any of these.

It was hot, but our guide kept us well supplied with complimentary bottled water from the fridge on the bus.

In the afternoon we visited the Killing Fields where it is estimated that up to 2.2 million of the country’s population of around 7 million were killed during the Khmer Rouge regime, under Pol Pot – previously, on board, we had watched a DVD on this black period in Cambodia’s history.

Our local guide was a wealth of information. We viewed the memorial, were taken to several of the mass graves and then went to the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.

Those who preferred not to view the Killing Fields were offered an option of taking a tuk tuk to explore the city on their own, although no one in our group chose this option.

Back on La Marguerite, we freshened up and headed to the Lounge to enjoy complimentary local spirits and beers.

After dinner, many passengers went ashore to experience the local nightlife, as we were not leaving until the next morning. Everyone felt very safe, and this was the case throughout the whole journey, as in all the main cities there is an abundance of Tourist Police.

This morning we sailed towards the Cambodia/Vietnam border.

Watching the lush jungle and small villages go by from our large picture windows, in the cabin and the Lounge, was an absolute delight. At the border, we paused mid river while local officials came on board and carried out the usual formalities.

During the day, the crew showed off their fruit carving skills and gave lessons on how to make and cook spring rolls and Vietnamese pho, a local soup taken mainly at breakfast – with its noodles, small pieces of chicken or beef and tasty rich broth, Pho is something that I have really come to like.

There was also an ice cream extravaganza in the afternoon. Most of the passengers attended, piling various flavours and toppings on made-to-order sundaes.

Our ship then arrived at Tan Chau, Vietnam, at which time we assembled in the Lounge to receive our usual pre-dinner briefing on what’s in store for tomorrow.

Today we visited our first town in Vietnam.

Virtually untouched by tourism, Tan Chau, with its slipper and rattan mat making factories, was a hive of activity.

Rickshaws were provided for all and proved a most comfortable way to see the local sights (pulled rickshaws have been replaced by cycle and motorbike variations, though the term “rickshaw” commonly applies).

Transferring to motorboats, we cruised along narrow water channels, visited floating fish farms and journeyed down tributaries to see houses on stilts, leaning precariously against each other.

Late afternoon, we cruised down stream to Sa Dec, arriving in the early evening. We moored here overnight and were entertained by our resident pianist and a special Mekong folklore performance.

Today, after breakfast (at which I had my new favourite dish, chicken pho), we were taken ashore by a local boat to explore Sa Dec.

The French writer Marguerite Duras lived in Sa Dec between 1928 and 1932 – our riverboat, La Marguerite, was named after her. While living in Sa Dec, Duras became the lover of a man from a wealthy Chinese family. Their love story became the basis for her 1984 Prix Goncourt prize winning novel, “The Lover”.

On a walking tour, we visited the old house of Huynh Thuy Le, better known as “The Lovers’ Museum”. We then walked along a paved riverbank and visited the local markets.

In the afternoon, we boarded another boat for an excursion to Cai Be.

Here, we visited the local port area with its colourful buildings and Cai Be’s floating market, a huge draw for locals and tourists alike.  Vegetables, fruits and all manner of items are sold from boats that are tied together in groups of four to six.  Their wares are hung from large poles to identify which ship has what.

To end the day we visited a French gothic cathedral.

Back on board, in air-conditioned comfort, our last night on the ship was celebrated at the Captain’s Farewell Dinner.

Today, after breakfast, we bid farewell to APT’s La Marguerite and boarded an air-conditioned coach for a two-hour journey to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).

Driving through the countryside, watching rice fields being planted and observing the local towns and shops, was, as always, a pleasure (the roads, like most of the roads on our coach trips, were sealed and made for a comfortable journey).

Soon after leaving My Tho, we found ourselves on a multi-lane highway. There were signs of development everywhere and I got a strong impression that the standard of living is rising here.

Once arriving in Ho Chi Minh City, we were all dropped off at the 5-star Sheraton Hotel where the tour continued for a few more days, excursions in the city included.  We left the group at this stage, however, as we had other travel commitments.

Overall, this was a very informative and exciting tour. There is so much to learn about the Cambodian and Vietnamese way of life and, without exception, every local we met was friendly and went out of their way to help.

Cambodia and Vietnam are ‘must see’ countries and travelling them by river ship is definitely the way to go.

As the saying goes, “unpack once and enjoy your journey”.

Find out more information in our guide to first-time cruisers.

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First Time Cruisers Tips

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