I know what you’re thinking: Antarctica? Isn’t that where Captain Scott ended up as a human ice pole? A place where even sea lions think twice before venturing out? Why would I want to go there?
Well, I’m here to tell you that Antarctica is not just for penguins. It’s the most spectacular place on earth. And, thanks to modern expedition ships like the Viking Polaris, you can experience the White Continent without sacrificing any of your creature comforts.
What’s more, it’s a dinner party showstopper. A sea safari is the quickest way to command attention. Everyone wants to know what it’s like. I’ve travelled on African safaris and Indian tiger hunts. Nothing tops that answer to that dinner party perennial: “Been anywhere interesting lately?”
“Yes – Antarctica!”
I watched breathtaking sunsets over ice floes, penguins frolic in the snow, and marvelled at breaching whales. It was nature at its rawest and most profound, an experience that touched my soul.







I had adventures that would make even Bear Grylls raise an eyebrow. A dive in a submarine. A high-speed jaunt in a military ops jet boat. Close encounters with leopard seals and whales.
These were 13 days that changed everything. I’ll never view the climate change debate – or a David Attenborough documentary – in the same way.
But I do understand your trepidation. Isn’t it cold? Isn’t it uncomfortable? Aren’t the seas rough? Isn’t it a long way away?
Great questions – I asked myself all of them. Let’s deal with them one by one. The answers may well surprise you.
Isn’t it cold?
My biggest surprise – I wasn’t cold once. Yes, really! Viking gave me a smart blue fleece and red expedition jacket, waterproof trousers, and rented boots. Along with my Anaconda long johns, I was actually too warm, even on the ice.
I went across the water in a twin-jet speedboat and under it in a yellow submarine, and I can honestly say I had no idea the temperatures were minus zero.
The ship was as toasty as a sauna, filled with luxury nooks and crannies and electric fireplaces so realistic I just wanted to toast a marshmallow on one. The Nordic Spa allows you to swim in a heated pool while watching royal blue icebergs drift past your window. It’s all included and it doesn’t come any cooler than this.
My suite had a specially heated cupboard for my clothes. After each expedition to the ice, you just popped them inside to dry. Perfect for the next trip on the zodiacs.

Isn’t it uncomfortable?
Viking Polaris is a thoroughly modern ship (she’s just three years old) with amazing amenities. She carries only 378 guests with a crew of 256, and she is what’s called Polar Class 6, meaning she is safe for polar waters, and she can travel at 18 knots, making her one of the fastest around (great for outrunning the ice).
That’s got the technical bits out of the way. Now for the home comforts.
The Viking Polaris is less of a vessel and more of a floating palace. It’s got everything you could possibly want, from cozy cabins with heated floors to a spa that would make Cleopatra jealous. I spent a lot of time swopping stories in the Explorer’s Lounge, a swanky bar with panoramic windows and a roaring fireplace (okay, it a digital fireplace, but it was still jolly cozy).





You will be accommodated in one of six different suites, all of them exceptional. It’s the thought that goes into the design that you’ll most admire about this ship. My Nordic Junior came with binoculars and bird books. The window retracted electronically like a French balcony so I could watch the wildlife.
There are seven restaurants, including Manfredi’s, a sushi bar, the World Café and a private dining room. They serve everything from Norwegian delicacies to Italian classics. The wonderful thing about Viking is that wine and beer are included, as is specialty dining.
So here you are at the planet’s last frontier – but still wining and dining like you are in Sydney or Melbourne.
At the back of the ship is the amazing Finse Terrace, where you can sit on recliners while enjoying a drink next to a lava rock fire pit while surrounded by icebergs.
And there is a theatre, and lab and let’s not forget the Hangar – where the toys are stored. Two Norwegian-built special ops speed boats, and two bright yellow submarines, as well as kayaks and zodiacs.
Aren’t the seas rough?
Yes, there was one evening when we were sitting in the Den, a cosy bar at the bows of the ship listening to crewmen tell their seafaring stories, when the bay windows were covered in salt spray. But we had smooth sailing almost all the way after that.
Some of you may have read about the Drake’s Passage. “Did you get the Drake Shake or the Drake Lake,” the Antarctica cognoscenti often ask gleefully.
It’s true the Drake Passage, planet’s deepest waters between South America’s Cape Horn, Chile, Argentina, and the South Shetland Islands of Antarctica, can be rough. It’s where the Pacific, Atlantic and Southern oceans converge. You need to traverse it get to Antarctica. It takes just over a day.
But the Viking Polaris is equipped with the most up-to-date weaponry. A straight bow, a longer hull, state-of-the-art fin stabilisers that allow the vessel to glide over the waves for the calmest possible journey, and an ice-strengthened hull and u-tank stabilizers which significantly decrease roll by up to 50% when the ships are stationary.

Do I have to be super fit?
You don’t have to be an Olympic athlete to enjoy Antarctica. While there are opportunities for kayaking, there are also plenty of ways to experience the magic without overexerting yourself. The ship’s submarines, Ringo and George, offer a unique glimpse into the underwater world, while the Zodiacs take you on thrilling rides past icebergs and penguin highways. You’ll get right up close to seals and gentoo penguins – one even obligingly hopped onto our Zodiac to shelter from a passing leopard seal.
A journey with purpose
Viking Polaris isn’t just about luxury and adventure; it’s also about contributing to our understanding of this fragile ecosystem. It will unleash your inner David Attenborough. The expedition team actively involves guests in citizen science projects, from monitoring krill to tracking whale movements. You’ll be checking on everything from penguins to plankton. And the onboard labs are engaged in serious research, reporting to NASA and publishing scientific papers.
Dinner Party Gold
After experiencing the wonders of Antarctica, you’ll return home with a treasure trove of stories and experiences that will make you the star of any dinner party. People will hang on your every word as you describe the thrill of encountering penguins, the awe of witnessing a glacier calving, and the sheer beauty of this pristine wilderness. You’ll be able to share your knowledge of the region’s history, wildlife, and scientific research, impressing your friends and family with your newfound expertise. You’ll be able to drop phrases like “Drake Passage” and “Antarctic Convergence” into casual conversation, leaving your guests in awe. And you might even inspire them to embark on their own polar expedition.
So is Antarctica worth it?
Absolutely! It’s a journey that will challenge your perceptions, ignite your sense of adventure, and leave you with a profound appreciation for the delicate balance of nature.
Right now, Viking has special offers including $2,400 towards airfares per booking and $500 shipboard spending. So that’s a great reason to get this off the bucket list and onto the To Do list. See more here.
No trip has been as life-changing as my adventure in Antarctica. And I’m pretty sure you’ll feel the same.
My life used to be bounded by the horizon of Sydney Harbour and the city skyline. But in Antarctica, you find a whole new world ruled by the heavens and inhabited by wildlife
Our expedition leader told us at the start his intention was to turn us into Antarctica advocates, spreading the message of this remote part of our planet to our own networks to ensure its survival. And he was right. Once you see it, it’s hard not to feel a personal responsibility for this unique and very special place.
How do you get from Australia to Antarctica?
We flew Latam from Sydney to Buenos Aires, taking about 17 hours stopping briefing at Santiago, Chile. Note that there may not be direct flights from Australia to Buenos Aires, so you might need to first fly to Santiago, Chile. We stayed at the Four Seasons in a great area of Buenos Aires before taking a connecting 3.5-hour domestic flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia. Total travel time from Australia to Ushuaia typically ranges from 24 to 35 hours, depending on layover durations. However, we did manage to tuck in a fabulous night at a tango club, along with dinner which was a high spot of the journey.
Our ship was waiting in Ushuaia and we boarded straight away.
What should I pack for Antarctica?

Firstly, it’s important to know that the cruise line will give you essential outdoor clothing. Viking provided a very smart fleece and a waterproof red coat (practical mementos from the trip that you can take home) and loaned me waterproof trousers and insulated boots.
Underneath, you’ll need some thermal T-shirts and long johns. Anaconda has a great range of thermals, with both tops and leggings such as the Mountain Design Merino range (at $129.99 each). Patagonia also has great quality thermals- their Capilene range is a popular choice with leggings for $149.95 and long-sleeved tops for $129.95. The UNIQLO heat tech range is also a great affordable option for a thermal t-shirt (at $24.90), for both men and women.
Of course, good gloves and socks are a must. Kathmandu Thermo socks are a great bet (a two-pack is $59.98), but North Face, Patagonia and Anaconda also all have good options. Anaconda is also a good option for waterproof gloves, with a range of prices. Their XTM Whistler Snow Gloves retail at $119.99 and are an ideal mid-range choice to keep hands warm and dry.
A warm hat is also essential, but what really makes a difference, especially when it’s windy, is a neck warmer. You can tuck it into your fleece to cover any gaps where the cold can infiltrate, and also pull it over your mouth and nose to keep your face warm. The Freedom Fleece Gaiter from North Face is $50, and will make all the difference. You can then pull the hood of your trusted loaned jacket over your neck warmer and hat for full coverage.
Don’t forget to pack some polarised sunglasses to reduce sun glare. The UV levels in Antarctica can be extremely high, particularly due to the constant reflection of sunlight off the ice. A waterproof backpack is also a great addition to put your camera, phone and any extra layers in just in case.
What was the submarine like?

The journey down was full of ‘Dive! Dive! Dive!’ excitement. There are six passengers in the sub, so it’s a tight squeeze. We photographed lots of interesting plants which got the Expedition Team very excited (they were immediately dispatched to a university studying the ocean floor). And I saw an icefish, which had a huge mouth and enormous gills.
Is it worth going if you don’t want to leave the ship?

Viking’s expedition ships are a destination in themselves, and I got as much joy and excitement standing on the deck watching whales as I did on the water or the ice. And many lines offer cruises past the ice or Antarctica without stopping.
Is it safe?
From the start, safety is a priority. Mother Nature rules and accidents happen. But every safety precaution is taken, the trained and experienced polar crew are always right next to you. I felt in very safe hands. Before we are allowed to take a submarine dive in Ringo, we need to pass a fitness test. Thankfully, I am only asked to bend my knees. Pass! This is quickly followed by Zodiac training. Getting in and out of these vessels – which are perfect for what the crew refers to as “wet landings” – just needs a bit of technique. You shuffle along on your backside and then swing your legs over. Easy!